mikl_plkcc, on 2025-March-15, 11:03, said:
Another board that I wanted to discuss: board 14
My holding was ♠QT3 ♥KT54 ♦T5 ♣AJ42
Opponents played Precision and RHO opened a strong club, and the auction went
(1♣!) (strong) - /
(1♦!) (waiting) - 1♠ - (1NT) (16-18) - 2♠*
(3♦) - 3♠# - (4♦) - 4♠
(5♦) - //
* I should theoretically bid a strong raise there but, as they had shown 0 suits, we didn't have an agreement what was the cuebid here. I proposed that we would bid 2NT as the cuebid but we couldn't make it to the convention card yet.
# I couldn't remember exactly if this was the actual bidding, what I remembered was that there was some competitive action and they bid 5♦ over our 4♠.
I had no idea if we would make 4♠ or not, but given that they opened a strong club and competed to the 4-level with a fit, with my shortness they would likely make the contract and, although we were unlikely to have the points for a ♠ game, at green a stretch to 4♠ would be fairly safe regardless if it would make it not.
Obviously both side had a huge fit. I let them play undoubled because I didn't have the trumps to double them, and it was not known how good their fit was. Also, the strength was likely split evenly as well, possibly between 20-20 and 18-22, so it would be possible that both sides could make the contract, and given that we didn't have a large fit I couldn't compete to the 5-level (it belongs to the opponents).
The board ended up down 2, and my host partner told me that I should have doubled because I had defensive values, and explained that they were likely to go down and a double could gain us points, despite the small likelihood that their 5♦ would make.
I couldn't understand at all. To my knowledge, when my opponents have shown a fit, I should only double if I have both strength and trumps, such that the contract is surely going down. I clearly didn't have trumps here, we couldn't ascertain opponents' trump length, and from the auction we didn't even have 3 sure tricks. (I had a sure club and a possible heart trick, but as we had shown a spade fit already, I would assume that we could have only 1 or even 0 spade tricks in case the opponents were short in it. My partner made an overcall in 1♠ so I couldn't assume any defensive tricks outside ♠)
Can anyone further explain to me if I should or should not double?
First, this does depend a bit on the meaning of your previous auction. If you are playing against some kind of strong club system reasonably frequently (say you face such a pair at least once every 3 or 4 sessions) then I suggest you have some agreements as to style, as it might not be the same as against a natural system. I normally play that partner's 1
♠ overcall here can be extremely weak, though a spade rebid suggests some strength - not because rebids automatically suggest strength but because a weak hand with a 6th spade would start with a 2
♠ overcall. But, since a 2
♠ overcall for me can be very weak, it still doesn't promise much.
Second, you don't need a strong spade raise in this situation. With a good hand and support for spades, you can double and expect to set 1N for more than you can get making anything your way. In many ways, it's like your partner opened 1
♠ and RHO overcalled 1N (15-18), except that you don't quite expect as much (or in my case almost anything) from your partner. (However, it is correct to use 2N as a strong hand that for some reason doesn't want to defend 1N.)
With your given hand, in my partnerships, I would meekly raise to 2
♠, because partner's 1
♠ bid could have been xxxxx xxx x xxxx - it's that important to disrupt your opponents' strong club sequences. (Frankly, it's a pretty good position to psych in also.)
As for whether or not to double 5
♦, if your partner has shown a decent hand, I think you have to double at MPs (you're already getting a terrible score for 5
♦ making) but have to pass at IMPs.