Antrax, on 2012-February-16, 07:18, said:
On the "easy" one, Ideally I'd like to show partner I have clubs locked up and that I have nothing in hearts. I used to think the ♣Q is a good discard here as it should show the J, but on another thread the notion was that pitching the club Q should tell partner he needs to guard clubs.
On that spirit, I'll pitch the ♥7 which shows I don't like hearts and follow up with the heart 8 and 9 to show the 7 was "low".
On the first trick I would play low - otherwise partner might think I have the ♠K when declarer wins the ace.
If the ♦K was led from dummy, I would give count in diamonds on the off-chance partner can hold up the ace. Similarly if a diamond is led to the K. If declarer unblocks the ♦A neither of us will give count, and I won't think to play the diamond spots in any interesting order.
There are no real right or wrong answers, on a question like this. Your carding is what you and your partner agree. For me, if I discard the queen of clubs early (first discard) I am telling partner I have clubs. If you think an honor discard should always be some kind of alarm clock play, then that is fine. If I discard an honor like the queen of clubs later on a hand, then I am giving up that suit. The strategy to abandon hearts, will make it clear to your partner that you are saving clubs, especially if you played a discouraging spade at trick one. A question for you, you discarded all three hearts, starting with the seven. For you, does the sequence in which you play your last two hearts matter? That is, if you play 7-8-9 have any more or less significance than if you play 7-9-8. Both sequences show that the seven was low, so that part of the signal (to confirm to your partner that you don't like hearts) is satisfied. If you assign some meaning to the two sequences, one of them would have to be either the meaning you defined or nothing to signal (alas, sometimes that will be true).
I wouldn't worry too much about partner having the diamond ace. He didn't double and lead it to trick one after all (not to mention there is at least a heart and a club entry to dummy to take care of any ducking issues). So count in diamonds, while most often is given, surely is not necessary here. So your diamond plays could be random, count -- because you have no other agreement --, suit preference, count in some other suit, attitude for spades assuming first play was count, or count for spades if first was attitude, etc. Of course, it is best not to make this stuff up on the fly, you have to have an agreement before the hand is ever played and use the carding consistently so partner can rely upon it. In the alternative methods (only at notrump), the play to the first suit declarer leads is suit preference. So if you where playing that, you could show, for instance, something in spades or something in perhaps is clubs or even something in hearts (middle-up-down, or middle-down-up). Just a thought... as the alternative method will be used on the other two puzzle hands.
This problem might not be as easy as I implied to get it right, but I meant the defensive carding was relatively easy. Part of this easy problem is that your partner it seems, will be stuck with watching hearts, especially if you totally abandon that suit. If you carded the way you said you would, your partner would play perfect defense and keep his hearts (which he must do on this hand). But that alone is not enough to set the hand, let's see why.
You can imagine your partner's hand on this auction. Declarer has 18-19 points, dummy had only 13, and you had 4. That gives partner from 4 to 5 hcp. You have seen, presumably three of those (
♠QJ).So the most he can be expected to have is 2 hcp. These one or two points can only be in hearts, so partner has the heart queen or the heart jack. If it is the heart jack, declarer has 13 tricks (6d, 2s, 3h, 2c). If it the heart queen, partner will also need the heart ten, but declarer has 12 sure tricks (6d, 2s, 3h, 2c). You have clubs stopped, and your partner was never going to hold onto anything in clubs, no matter what you signaled, just your signal gives him some comfort... and more importantly, your partner will count your hand and know how many hcp you could hold. He will see the diamond jack, and if you signal with the club Q, he will count you for the club jack. So partner will see "four" points in your hand. He knows you don't have the
♠J, and if you had the
♥J you have abandoned that suit.
In the ending, your partner will have to keep the
♥QTx to have a chance to defeat this, as noted above. So declarer's last four cards will be (perhaps) the
♠Kx
♥Kx. This means, your partner will not be able to keep the
♠J9 (we assume he has the nine for leading the
♠Q without the ten). So towards the end of this hand, this might become a class III hand, in that you will have to realize that you need to keep both of your spades. If your partner believes your discouraging signal in spades, he might make a mistake and throw a hearts to keep spades (playing you for the
♥J. You can discourage him from doing something so foolish by, 1) signalling you like spades (we can discuss the ways this can be done, depending upon your agreement, without throwing a spade away -- which is of course, fatal to the defense), and 2) that you are keeping clubs and/or not keeping hearts.
At trick one, you could signal you like spades, then show the club values and the
♦J. Partner will work out that your spade attitude is based upon the Tx(x). You could use your diamond cards to signal value in spades (high diamond, then low to show value in a higher suit). The right way would probably be
♦J, then middle then low diamond for me. This would show (as part of the alternative method) spade value, then odd number of spades originally. Or you can use lavinthal discards, discard a high heart (no value in hearts, value in spades), then discard the club queen the very next trick.
The key signal, however, is that your are giving up hearts. If you convey that you are giving up hearts, partner has no choice but to play you for the
♠T.
This hand was a beginner level mistake. Your default agreement is standard carding. Even before we play to trick one, we do a little simple math. Declarer's 15-17 hcp, plus dummy's 18 hcp, plus our 6hcp. If declarer didn't open light (with 14), the heart jack is the only hcp partner can hold. At most partner might have the ♣J if declarer opened with only 14.
In an effort to discuss how to communication between partners is a critically important, let's ask, what information -- if any do you want to share with partner, and what information, if any, you need from him.
Your partner seems to have gotten off to less than the ideal lead, allowing declarer 4 ♥ tricks (click next four times to see the first four tricks and the play to 5th trick). After four tricks, what do you discard on the last heart? What information do we need from partner and how are we suppose to get this info?
The options here, is partner has only three hearts, in which case declarer has 5♥, 3♠, 2♦ and 2♣ that is still only 12 tricks. If declarer has 3 or 4♥'s, he only has 4♥tricks, plus 3♠, 2♦, 2♣ for 11 top tricks. IF we discard a spade, we run the risk of declarer having 5♠, if we discard a diamond, we run the risk of declarer having 4♦ to AT, if we discard a third club, we run the risk of declarer having 4♣ to the jack, where each of those discards risk awarding declarer two extra tricks.
But perhaps we can discard a diamond, because partner could have the ten of diamonds ( ♦Txx(x)).
Most of us (me included) would see the low spade from partner as "three spades", since declarer needs the ♠AK for his bid, he didn't open off-shape 1nt with a singleton spade Ace, and thus abandon our spades. With no further agreements, a spade discard is clearly called for, and it your agreements are limited to the stated condition in this post, not discarding a spade on the 4th heart is a clear mistake. But what if the ♠4 was a singleton? A spade discard is fatal. Is there any reasonable carding agreements that would allow you to correctly defend this hand to defeat 7NT if partner has either a singleton spade or three spades.