My partner and I are from two similar-yet-different schools of bidding - I was never really taught "standard" bidding and found out only by learning at the table, while partner seems to know Standard English Acol inside-out. We've made generally solid agreements about uncontested auctions and overcalls/UCBs etc, but seem to have differing opinions about redoubles. So I'd be grateful for some expert opinions...
Say it goes 1x-(X)-XX. That promises 9+ without a fit, easy enough. But partner seems to think it implies penalty interest, such that in these two auctions the marked double is for penalty:
I on the other hand think that the XX is simply a decriptive bid - balance of points with no clear direction - and the Xs here should be for takeout, since the chances of wanting to defeat the opps in 1H (or even 2H) is very small. So the first question:
1) which meaning, in your opinion, is the better way to play?
On the same theme:
2) After opponents bid (1D)-X-(XX), is pass here suggesting desire to play in 1DXX, similar to a penalty pass of (1D)-X?
What about this kind of thing?
I'd play this as showing about 14+ but with another suit, sort of like if opener had bid another suit and I'd made a takeout X instead. My partner knows it promises extra values, but I'd hate for him to pass instead of take it out to a fit.
3) Should, in general, advancer remove the redouble in the auction above without a heart fit? (Or even with a heart fit, if he has a really weak hand, to go for 200 instead of 400?!)
4) Along a similar line: is responder expected to take this out?
And now for something completely different. I'm not always convinced that, having opened, I'm doing the right thing by passing on the second round of the auction on a minimum hand. Say:
I would normally now pass, and only bid 2D if I had about a queen-and-a-bit more.
5) Do you bid 2D here? If not, how much more would you want before you bid 2D? What if we swap diamonds and clubs, so 2H is about your only real bid?
6) How much do you need to make a TOX here? My partner says "even a minimum hand is enough if it has shape" but then gets confused when I ask him why he didn't reopen a balanced 15. I always thought you needed some extra values (say a good 14) to make a TOX, and I tend to TOX any balanced 15-16 (with no stop) unless it has good defence, and all 17-19s (even when partner passes on the first round - he may have had to pass due to having no suitable bid).
Many thanks,
ahydra
Edit: this may well belong better in the Natural Bidding forum, if a mod agrees could they please move it? Thanks.
Edit2: prettified the post with hand diagrams